Exmouth as its own destination
Exmouth sits at the tip of North West Cape, 1,270 kilometres north of Perth, and is the base town for exploring Cape Range National Park and the Ningaloo Marine Park. While the Ningaloo page covers the reef's whale sharks and snorkel tours, Exmouth deserves its own entry: Turquoise Bay alone is one of Australia's top five beaches, Yardie Creek gorge is unlike anything else in WA, and the town itself has excellent dining and a remote outback character that draws visitors well outside peak reef season.
The town has a population of around 2,500 and sits 3.5 hours north of Carnarvon and about 2.5 hours north of Coral Bay. Making it the final stop on a Coral Coast drive before the turn inland to Port Hedland and the Pilbara, or a turnaround point for a circuit back to Perth.
Turquoise Bay
40 kilometres south of Exmouth in Cape Range National Park, Turquoise Bay is consistently ranked among Australia's best beaches: a 600-metre arc of white sand backed by limestone scrub, with a sandbar extending into water that shifts from pale turquoise to deep blue. The reef comes within metres of the shore.
The bay's famous drift snorkel, enter at the southern Drift car park, let the current carry you north over the reef, exit before the bend, gives you some of the best shallow-reef snorkelling in Australia without a boat. You'll see coral gardens, reef fish, turtles and often reef sharks in water 1–3 metres deep. Conditions vary with tides; go two hours after low tide for the best visibility and current.
Check the Exmouth tide chart before going. The drift snorkel works best two hours after low tide. Always exit the water before the northern sandbar bend. The current turns unpredictable beyond that point. Fins are essential; hire them in Exmouth if you don't have them.
Yardie Creek
The southernmost point of Cape Range National Park, Yardie Creek is where a permanent freshwater creek runs through a gorge of red and white banded limestone cliffs before meeting the Indian Ocean. A 2-kilometre return walking trail follows the gorge rim (about 1 hour) with views 30 metres down to the creek. Black-footed rock wallabies are common on the cliff faces throughout the day. Boat tours run up the creek from the car park. One of the best wildlife experiences in the park.
Cape Range National Park
Exmouth to Turquoise Bay is 40 kilometres; Yardie Creek is 65 kilometres. In between: Lakeside (best for beginners, calm water), Oyster Stacks (excellent fish life on incoming tide), Mandu Mandu Gorge walk (3 km return, 1.5 hours), Milyering Discovery Centre (ranger information, free entry). A national parks pass covers the whole park. A$15 for 4 weeks, buy online before arrival.
Vlamingh Head Lighthouse and stargazing
12 kilometres north of Exmouth, the 1912 Vlamingh Head Lighthouse sits on a 100-metre cliff overlooking the Indian Ocean and the North West Cape peninsula. At sunset, the views along the coast towards the Cape Range are extraordinary. The area around Exmouth is one of WA's best dark-sky locations. The Milky Way is clearly visible most clear nights, and organised stargazing tours run from town.
Whale watching
Humpback whales migrate through the Ningaloo Marine Park June to November. From July to October they are common enough to see from the beach at Exmouth with binoculars. Hunters Bay near the naval base communications towers is a reliable shore-based watching point. Boat-based whale watching tours run from Exmouth marina from July onwards.
Getting there
From Perth: North West Coastal Highway through Geraldton, Carnarvon and Coral Bay. The Exmouth turn-off is 150 kilometres past Carnarvon. Fuel in Carnarvon and Coral Bay before arriving. Exmouth has a fuel station but prices are higher than highway towns. Daily flights from Perth (about 2 hours) land at Learmonth Airport, 40 km south of town.
| Season | When | Temp | Verdict |
|---|---|---|---|
| Whale sharks | Mar–Jul | 24–32°C | Top reef season, drift snorkelling ideal |
| Manta rays | May–Nov | 20–30°C | Mantas peak Jun–Sep, still great snorkelling |
| Whale watching | Jun–Nov | 18–28°C | Humpbacks offshore and from shore |
| Summer | Dec–Feb | 30–40°C | Extreme heat, some reef closures, cyclone risk |
Practical notes
- Parks pass: Required for Cape Range NP. A$15 for 4 weeks. Buy online before arriving.
- Gear hire: Snorkel gear, fins and wetsuits available in Exmouth town. Don't attempt Turquoise Bay drift without fins.
- Fuel: Fill up in Carnarvon or Coral Bay. Exmouth has petrol but prices are higher.
- Accommodation: Book months ahead for whale shark season (April–June). Peak weeks sell out in January.
Frequently Asked Questions
Exmouth is the town. It has fuel, supermarkets, accommodation, restaurants and equipment hire. Ningaloo is the reef system that runs along the coast. Turquoise Bay and most of the snorkelling beaches are in Cape Range National Park, about 40–50 kilometres south of Exmouth town. The existing Ningaloo page covers whale sharks and reef tours. This Exmouth guide focuses on Turquoise Bay, Cape Range, Yardie Creek and Exmouth as a base.
Whale shark season runs from mid-March to late July. The peak is April–June. This is also manta ray season (May–November). Outside whale shark season, the reef snorkelling, diving and turtle nesting (November–March) are the main draws. Exmouth is worth visiting year-round.
The drift snorkel from the south end of the bay is excellent but requires some swimming ability. The current is strong and takes you north over the reef. Beginners should snorkel in the calmer northern section of the bay. Always exit before the northern point of the sandbar. No life savers on duty. Assess conditions carefully.
About 1,270 kilometres north of Perth. Approximately 12 hours by car. Daily flights from Perth take about 2 hours. Exmouth is 3.5 hours north of Carnarvon and about 2.5 hours north of Coral Bay.
Yardie Creek gorge walk, Vlamingh Head Lighthouse (panoramic views), whale watching cruises (June–November), the WWII communications mast at Harold E. Holt Naval Base, sunset at Lighthouse Bay, the Milyering Visitor Centre inside Cape Range National Park, and star gazing. Exmouth is one of WA's best dark-sky locations.
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